If we’ve said it once, we’ve said it a thousand times: An up-to-date license is absolutely key to a cosmetology career.

If you’re a cosmetologist or future cosmetologist, put on your big girl panties and make sure you’re a legal practitioner in your state. Yes, there’s an exam, and yes, it costs money, but it’s not about you. It’s about protecting consumers and maintaining safety standards.

As for the consumers out there, if you’re looking for beauty services, don’t trust someone just because they call themselves a “cosmetologist.” Make sure you see their license. Make sure you double-check with state licensing agencies.

These reminders come after last Thursday’s conviction of Elsa Then, a Bronx woman who was accused in the 2009 death of Fiordaliza Pichardo, as reported by The New York Daily News. Then had been running an illegal – but successful – cosmetology practice when Pichardo came to her to receive silicone injections into her rear end and thighs. The day after the injections, Pichardo died from cardiac arrest after some of the silicone entered her bloodstream and got lodged in her lungs.

Pichardo’s daughter, who was present at the treatment, testified that Then had used Bounty paper towels and Krazy Glue to seal the injection site.

Then was convicted of criminally negligent homicide and faces up to four years in prison.

Now, obviously, this is an extreme example, and just because a cosmetologist is unlicensed doesn’t mean that they are a deadly weapon poised to kill again. But it should serve as a wake-up call that the most important part of the beauty profession is executing services in a clean, sanitary environment using safe techniques. It is unacceptable to practice cosmetology and dangerous to patronize any cosmetologist who doesn’t uphold their licensure and maintain the highest standards.

Great hair, great skin, great nails – that’s all of the fun stuff. Protecting our clients’ health and well-being while they’re in our chairs – that’s the baseline. No exceptions.

So, you got the dead skin nibbled off of your feet by fish, your eyeliner is permanently tattooed to your eyelids and we’re not even going to discuss all of strange face mask concoctions you’ve tried. What’s the next logical step on your quest toward beauty? Eyelash perms, obviously.

Eyelash perms start with rollers imported from Japan – the rollers come in around 5 different sizes depending on how curly you want your eyelashes. Each eyelash is wrapped around the roller using adhesive. Next, a diluted perm solution and a neutralizer are applied. The end result? One less step in your morning beauty regimen.

Although yesterday was the first time I came across this eyelash perm trend online, spas in the U.S. have been doing this treatment, which began in Japan, for at least a couple of years. The perm lasts around 4 to 8 weeks, which is the time it takes for your eyelashes to grow.

It should be noted that eyelash perming is not yet FDA approved, so make sure you are seeing a trained, licensed cosmetologist or esthetician if you decide to get these services. If you’ve had any experiences with eyelash perming or performed eyelash perms, let us know what you think!

Something big is brewing in Texas. Cosmetologists and barbers are both feeling pretty indignant, and judging by the comments in articles like this, their clients have pretty strong feelings, too.

So here’s the deal: some Texas cosmetologists are challenging laws that allow barbers – but not cosmetologists – to shave customers. Cosmetologists want to be able to legally shave their customers, but barbers (who feel that cosmetologists are encroaching on their monopoly over men and boys already) want to keep the razor-wielding privileges for themselves.

Now, Texas law has allowed cosmetologists to trim beards and mustaches since 2001. But where does trimming end and shaving start? Texas has no legal definition of shaving, or even of a “razor.”

That means we’re not just talking about Sweeney Todd-style straight razors? Umm … nope. Legally, Texas cosmetologists can’t even take a pink Lady Bic to the bottoms of a client’s sideburns. The cosmetologists feel like this is silly – they’ve been handling safety razors since they were preteens, and even tattoo artists in Texas are allowed to use disposable razor to shave the area they’re going to tattoo.

Barbers, on the other hand, feel like their exclusive right to shaving customers represents the last thing that sets them apart from cosmetologists. Trained in the 14 distinct strokes of the classic straight-razor shave, they feel they’ve earned the right to at least a small population of men.

So … what do you think? Is it silly that cosmetologists (who often undergo longer beauty training programs) cannot shave their customers, even with safety razors? Or do barbers have a right to hang on to something that’s set them apart since the days of white-and-red striped poles?

Sarah Hunt is a professional freelance makeup artist based in Omaha, Nebraska who has styled a variety of clients from U.S. Senators, to sports legends, to actors and actresses.

I am a professional freelance make-up artist in the second half of my 30s. I’ve been working as a make-up artist in the film and print industry for 14 years. I have had the pleasure of styling a wide spectrum of personalities – U.S. Senators, sports legends, journalists, CEOs, billionaires, actors, actresses, and everyday people. Two years ago I approached my local YWCA about their domestic violence awareness campaign. I wanted to donate my talent to the women in need at the YWCA – a need I recognize, because I myself am a survivor of sexual assault.

Here are some startling statistics that illustrate the growing epidemic of violence:

• 1 in 6 women and 1 in 33 men are victims of sexual violence in their lifetime.
• College women are 6 times more likely to be a victim of sexual assault.
• In 2007 248,300 people reported a sexual assault in the U.S. That’s 1 person every 2 minutes.
• 60% of sexual assaults are not reported to the police.
• Approximately 73% of victims know their assailants.
• Only 6% of rapists spend even a day in jail.

The YWCA provides help to women, including survivors of rape and domestic violence, in times of crisis. They work to eliminate racism and empower women through counseling, career training, health and fitness, and childcare. This is how I met Felicia, the most beautiful person I have had the chance to style. She is my age, married young and raised five children with her husband – who beat and raped her repeatedly for more than a decade. Eventually, she made the decision to rise up and free herself and her children from this violence with the help of the YWCA. He is now in jail.

For one of their domestic violence awareness campaigns, I was asked to re-create the injuries she sustained the last time he beat her using makeup techniques. Law enforcement would not release the actual injury documentation photos because they were considered state evidence and could only be obtained by paying a fee. Because the cost was too much for the not-for-profit YWCA to pay, and they still needed to make a graphic statement about their awareness campaign, I was presented with a perfect opportunity. I used several products to re-create her injuries:

• Ben Nye EW-4 master bruise wheel
• Ben Nye CK-5 FX burns and blisters color wheel
• Modeling putty/wax
• Fake blood
• Neutral setting powder
• Dappling sponge, and my favorite brushes

Felicia handled the experience with strength and grace. I applied the bruises and gashes as she explained to me each injury and how it happened. In the span of 30 minutes we traveled back to the darkest time of her life. My work complete, I asked her if she wanted to see – she picked up the hand mirror and looked deeply at her reflection, nodding with approval as she looked back at me with satisfaction and spirit in her eyes. We quickly snapped the photos and removed the make-up with Bobbi Brown skincare products:

• Lathering Tube Soap
• Exfoliating Cream Wash
• Soothing Face Tonic
• Philosophy Hope in a Jar Moisturizer

Then, for the next half hour we talked about her children, her family, her goals and dreams, and how far her personal journey had taken her as I transformed her back into the stronger, even more beautiful woman she has become. We went full circle, from normal to nightmare and back, in 60 minutes. This was a difficult journey for me as a survivor and a professional makeup artist, but it illustrates to me the power of the human spirit.

One of the most important questions a potential cosmetology school student has is how to pay for cosmetology education. The Montgomery GI Bill was designed to provide soldiers and veterans with financial funding for higher education. Each state has its own Montgomery GI Bill approving agency, and technical schools such as beauty schools are ideal candidates. The GI Bill has even recently been expanded to cover the spouses and dependents of military personnel, so it’s important for beauty schools to recognize and appreciate the service soldiers and their families have given to our country.

Ryan Vaia, a U.S. Marine Corps sergeant, long dreamed of becoming a licensed cosmetologist. However, when she applied to one Illinois cosmetology school, she discovered the beauty school would not maintain Illinois VA compliance because of the need to have an on-site member of the staff maintain academic records. Fortunately there are more than two dozen other Illinois cosmetology schools that do not have that issue.

If you’re a member of the military or immediate family, you may be able to benefit from the Montgomery GI Bill – but make sure the cosmetology school you choose is approved and willing to work with you! As for Vaia, she is already looking at other cosmetology schools in Illinois in order to transfer to one approved for the Montgomery GI Bill.

What are your thoughts on situations like Vaia’s? Have you ever run into any challenges applying the Montgomery GI Bill funding to a cosmetology school education?

Did you know that you no longer have to act professional to get paid? It’s true! You, too, can have unreasonable scheduling demands, vindictive behavior against low tippers and cut hair however you please without regard for your clients’ wishes! Isn’t that great? Well, it’s not true, but apparently this article on Shine – 14 Secrets Your Hairstylist Won’t Tell You – thinks all that is ok. Check out their suggestions:

• First, hair and nail clients shouldn’t schedule appointments on Saturday mornings, Friday evenings, the first of the day, the last of the day, or around lunch time. Apparently stylists don’t feel like working if they are tired, annoyed, ready to leave, not settled in or hungry. Nope, no good haircuts that way!
• Second, they have to tip well – at least an astronomical 20 percent! No matter what. If they don’t, you might ruin their hair next time, obviously!
• And finally, clients should never expect to get what they want. They bring in that darn picture of another A-list celebrity but should know the stylist is lying if they say they can make that look happen on them.

Does all this sound a little ridiculous? We thought so, and so did the people who responded to this article – both clients and stylists who are trained and educated from cosmetology school. Of course, as a hairstylist you have every right to expect polite customers that respect you and your time. But if all stylists acted the way this article suggests they would have very few clients, wouldn’t they?

The best stylists know that the way to get clients is to accommodate their schedules. If working Saturday mornings means you get more paying clients who are happy with the timing and keep coming back, then it’s a win-win situation. Every good hairstylist will find a schedule, pay scale, and so on that works for them and their clients. Most people have a hairstylist they like and trust, and they prefer to give that person their business.

All you hairstylists and cosmetology students, hopefully you have or will have some of these loyal clients on your roster. They appreciate the way you cut and style their hair. They enjoy talking to you and trust your opinions about their hair. Most of them probably expect you to do a good job, be friendly and prompt, listen to requests and respect them.

But then again, maybe we ought to follow Shine’s advice and switch things around. You know, ask not what you can do for your client, but what your client can do for you.

Weigh in! What do you think about scheduling appointments, tipping etiquette and style requests?

Holistic means ‘whole’ and holistic health focuses on the whole self: mind, body and spirit.  The practices used in holistic therapies are also sometimes referred to as alternative medicine.  These holistic and alternative approaches to medicine may not be a part of mainstream health care, but they are growing in the world of cosmetology.  The National Center for Complimentary and Alternative Medicine , a research group, has found that 38% of American adults use some form of alternative medicine.

People may think that the holistic health industry is separate from cosmetology, but that simply isn’t the case.  Cosmetology has extended far beyond hairstyling alone.  Many cosmetology schools offer programs in esthetics and skin care, nail care, hair care and massage therapy.  Each of these areas of cosmetology can work well with a holistic approach to health.  Cosmetology schools and beauty schools focus on outward appearance, and many people may not realize that outward appearance is often a reflection of our health.  When we are stressed, we may have tense muscles or more skin breakouts.  If we aren’t eating right, we might have brittle hair and nails.  All of these outward issues may be indicators of bigger problems.  As a society we need to be less stressed and focus more on our health.

Cosmetology and holistic health can work together to reach this goal.  We need to focus on our minds, bodies and spirits, and we need to be training future cosmetology professionals to help their clients find that same focus.  Getting a beauty treatment can help relax your clients.  As an esthetician, you can give advice on not only soothing broken out skin, but also mind/body/spirit exercises that can help prevent skin problems from coming back.  A session with a massage therapist can calm clients’ muscles and keep them relaxed as they go through their busy lives.  The health of the whole self is linked to outward appearance, so the cosmetology industry and holistic health industry should work more closely together to help our society become and remain healthy.

What about you? How does your cosmetology school or beauty salon tie holistics and alternative medicine into your services?

These days, it can be difficult to escape talk about the “R word.” I’m talking about the recession. In tricky economic times, it’s only natural for people to tighten their belts a little and trim down their extra expenses. That may mean cutting out certain luxuries, like eating out or taking a vacation.

So, where does the beauty industry fit into this equation? For businesses that are willing to adapt to the current economic situation and get creative, there are bountiful opportunities to attract new and existing spa customers.

Don’t let the shaky economy discourage you if you’re considering a career in the beauty or spa industry – spas around the country are finding ways to keep the foot baths and the massage tables occupied. Most are even flourishing and hiring more than ever.

Consider San Francisco’s spa industry. According to one online reference site, SpaFinder, there is one spa for every 5,100 San Francisco residents (this compares to about one spa for every 15,300 New York City residents). How does a business in this competitive environment stay afloat?

Here are a few ideas from some San Francisco spa directors:

1. Most importantly, get creative! Find ways to differentiate your spa from the competition and to keep your clients coming back.
2. Try out new ideas for payment programs or membership drives.
3. Attract eco-savvy customers by offering green facilities and spa practices, or break into another untapped market of potential spa-lovers.
4. Design customizable service packages. The InterContinental San Francisco I-Spa offers its customers a personalized membership program (similar to those offered at a gym).

What do you think about the current economy and its effect on spas and other health and beauty businesses? Do you have other ideas for how the beauty industry can weather the storm?

When it comes to health, you’re proactive. You don’t smoke cigarettes, you exercise and you even steer clear of cleaning products containing harsh chemicals. But, have you taken a look inside of your cosmetic bag? The laws regulating the ingredients that can be used in makeup and personal care products are more like loose guidelines. It’s up to you to be an informed consumer or beauty professional.

Find out exactly what you’re primping, priming and preening with. Environmentalist and author, Adria Vasil, gives us a list of ingredients to avoid when it comes to cosmetic and personal care products.

Here are the top 10 culprits, their crimes, and their aliases:

Culprit #1: Diethanolamine (DEA). Commonly found in bubbling, foaming and fizzing products like shampoos, soaps and body wash.
Crime: Suspected carcinogen. Repeated use has been linked to increased cases of kidney and liver cancer.
Alias: Look for names like Cocamide DEA or MEA, Lauramide DEA.

Culprit #2: Formaldehyde. Found in many brands of skin, hair and body care products, antiperspirants and nail polish.
Crime: Known carcinogen. Besides increasing your risks of getting cancer, exposure may cause joint pain, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infections, chronic fatigue, dizziness, loss of sleep and more.
Alias: Look for names like DMDM hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl urea and quaternium-15

Culprit #3: Parabens. Found in shampoos, conditioners, skin creams and deodorants.
Crime: Endocrine-disruptors. Parabens mimic female hormones and have been found in breast cancer tumor samples.
Alias: Look for the word “paraben” or any other word with the suffix “-paraben”, including methylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, propylparaben, etc.

Culprit #4: Petrolatum. Commonly found in lip products.
Crime: Interferes with skin’s natural cell development and can cause chapping, irritation and premature aging This substance is derived from a non-renewable crude oil, which people aren’t even supposed to breathe. Mineral oil is also petroleum-based.

Culprit #5: Phenyledediamine (PPD). Found in permanent hair dyes – especially darker shades.
Crime: Suspected Carcinogen. Frequent use has been linked to bladder cancer.
Alias: Also called P-diaminobenzene.

Culprit #6: Phthalates. Found in deodorants, shampoos, sunscreens, skin care body care and baby products.
Crime: Hormone disrupting chemicals. Many of the compounds that fall into the “fragrance” category are suspected carcinogens and toxins. Reported symptoms have included headaches, dizziness, rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, allergic skin irritation and more.
Alias: Often listed as an ingredient called “fragrance.”

Culprit #7: Sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate (SLS) (SLES). Found in detergents, car wash soaps, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. And, also in cosmetics, toothpaste, hair conditioner and most of the products that bubble and foam.
Crime: Known skin irritant, suspected carcinogen. Linked to both malformation in children’s eyes and to immune system damage.

Culprit #8: Talc. Commonly found in blush, baby powder, garden pesticides, antacids and more.
Crime: Suspected carcinogen. Talc may contain asbestos-like fibers and has been linked to ovarian and lung cancers.
Alias: Magnesium Silicate Hydroxide, talcum powder

Culprit #9: Toluene. Commonly found in nail polish.
Crime: Long-term exposure can cause damage to the nervous system, liver and kidneys.
Alias: methylbenzene or phenylmethane

Culprit #10: Triclosan. Found in everything from dishwashing detergent, trash bags, footwear to antibacterial liquid hand soaps, toothpastes, deodorants, face and body washes, acne treatments and more.
Crime: Suspected hormone disruptor and carcinogen. It has been associated with thyroid dysfunction and can convert into carcinogenic dioxins when exposed to sunlight in water.

Have you thought about the beauty products in your makeup bag? If you want to do some more in-depth investigation, the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep offers a safety guide for cosmetics and personal care products. You can type in any product that you’re interested in and it will give you a hazard rate.

So, how will this list affect your makeup bag? Will you pay closer attention to what you’re buying in the cosmetics aisle? Will these potentially cancer-causing ingredients affect your buying decisions? Share your thoughts here!